Wednesday Wanderings #6: El Carmen, Valencia
My new home
Each Wednesday I write about a place I’ve travelled to that I will romanticise forever or a book that set my world on fire. Expect tales of brief encounters with sharks in Colombia and dancing until dawn in Berlin.
Only two days until me and Zephyr finally move to Valencia. We’re joining Dan and assorted animals who have already moved into our apartment in El Carmen in the Old Town of Valencia. I thought I’d write about El Carmen this week, the historic and beautiful barrio which we will soon call home.
El Carmen was not my first choice of area to move to in Valencia. I wanted to move to Ruzafa. An area brimming with bars, edgy street art and edgier people. Aka the coolest place in town. But as we explored further and looked around, we decided the elegance of El Carmen was better suited for this more grown-up parenting era of our lives.
Our new neighbourhood lies in the heart of Valencia’s old town and is a place where history, art, and nightlife blend into one another. El Carmen’s narrow medieval streets form a labyrinth full of colourful street art, and an eclectic mix of traditional and modern spots. There are so many hidden little bars, small boutiques and coffee places I long to explore.
But El Carmen isn’t just another pretty old quarter—it has a fascinating past, shaped by conquests, trade, and cultural evolution — from its Moorish beginnings to its present-day status as a creative hub. El Carmen’s origins date back over 1,000 years, growing between two ancient city walls—one built by the Moors in the 11th century and another by the Christians in the 14th century. Its name comes from the Carmen Calzado Convent, which still stands today.
During the Middle Ages, El Carmen was home to artisans, merchants, and travellers who brought wealth and diversity to Valencia. However, by the 18th and 19th centuries, the district fell into decline, with many historic buildings abandoned or repurposed.
In the late 20th century, as Valencia transformed, El Carmen saw a cultural revival. Artists and creatives moved in, bringing with them a wave of street art, alternative bars, and independent shops. Today, the district balances its medieval charm with a thriving bohemian atmosphere. Its home to several modern art galleries and tons of street art.
Yet, the district isn’t without its challenges. The rise of tourism and nightlife has brought both prosperity and controversy, with locals debating how to balance preservation with modernisation. Some historic buildings remain abandoned, while others have been transformed into trendy apartments or cultural spaces.
Where to go:
IVAM Modern Art Museum my favourite museum in Valencia. It’s a brilliantly curated modern art gallery
Botanic Gardens a winding, romantic and creative botanical garden, where you will find me on a languorous summer afternoon
La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) a UNESCO-listed Gothic masterpiece, once the heart of Valencia’s booming silk trade
Museo del Carmen housed in a 16th-century convent, this museum tells the story of Valencia’s past
Centro del Carmen a former convent turned into a contemporary art and cultural centre. Exhibitions range from modern photography to avant-garde installations
Calle de los Colores (Calle Moret) One of Valencia’s most famous street art hotspots, with bold murals and colourful graffiti. El Carmen is a canvas for local and international artists, constantly evolving with new works
Three restaurants to try:
Tasca El Botijo a small, traditional bar serving tapas and local wines about 100m from my place
Sueño Andaluz a lively flamenco bar and restaurant, where you can enjoy delicious Andalusian food
La Tastaolletes a fantastic vegetarian and vegan-friendly restaurant, offering creative plant-based dishes with a Mediterranean touch
Three places to drink coffee:
Dulce de Leche Boutique perfect for a coffee and pastry break, this café serves some of the best cakes and croissants in Valencia
1 Rato Mas literally on my doorstep, always full and the best place for people-watching
Maya Guatemalan coffee! Did I mention Guatemala is my favourite country ever?
Three places to drink Agua de Valencia:
Café de las Horas a baroque-style café famous for its Agua de Valencia, a local cocktail made with orange juice and cava
Radio City a legendary bar and live music venue, great for catching flamenco performances
La Condesa amazing cocktails mainly mezcal based, aka Lara’s favourite
I can’t wait to make El Carmen home. I can’t wait to wander through centuries-old streets with Zephyr, marvel at street art, sip Agua de Valencia, or dance until dawn…
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Are you liking El Carmen so far?